What are the differences between the MG42, MG1 and MG3?
How can I set the headspacing in the field, so to speak?
Are the 8mm and .308 boosters interchangeable?
What do I need to swap calibers from .308 to8mm?
How do I field strip the MG42?
Can the MG42 trigger pull weight be adjusted?
How many rounds of linked .308 or 8mm will fit in a ammo can?
Should I use the lid of the ammo can to help feed the ammo when shooting?
Do I need to help feed the ammo when shooting the MG42?
What is the weight of the individual components, bipod, butt stock, carry handle and the gun itself?
How do I clear a jam in the gun?
What things must the home-builder make sure to do to comply with the GCA '68 and CrimeBill '94?
What features/mods are necessary to make a semi-auto that is approved by ATF?
Can a home-built MG42 ever be sold?
How many home-built guns can one make in any given time period?
Does there need to be name, serial number, date of mfgr, and place of mfgr if I build my own?
Are new steel links regulated the same way as high capacity magazines?
Why do bolts differ in weight?
Is the a print of the reciever?
Q. What are the differences between the MG42, MG1 and MG3?
Q. How can I set the headspacing in the field, so to speak?
A. Firstly a partial disassembly is in order. Remove your barrel and bolt from the weapon. Once removed, remove your bolts firing pin, extractor and ejector. Make sure there is no debris on your bolt head or in your barrel chamber. This is also a good time to inspect your bolt and barrel for damage... Next insert your GO gauge into the barrel chamber followed by placing the bolt head into the barrel locking piece with the locking wedge in place. Push forward on the bolt and insure that the locking rollers engage the barrel locking piece. The same procedure is used for the NOGO gauge. Though with this gauge the locking rollers should not engage the barrel locking piece. The above information was taken from The Universal MG Book, where it is also noted that headspacing is not necessary if original bolts and barrels are used...only if you attempt to mix German and non German parts. Whether the above checks will work properly with a modern 7.92 GO or NOGO gauge is up in the air.
Reichpapers
Q. Are the 8mm and .308 boosters interchangeable?
A. The boosters should not be interchanged due safety reasons brought about by increased pressures. The MG42 was designed to run with the 8mm cartridge and utilizing the 11.5mm booster cone…the booster cone for the post war .308 was 9mm. Firing the .308 cartridge with the 11.5mm would by no means be dangerous, but may affect shooting performance or cartridge cycle. Shooting the 8mm cartridge with the 9mm booster will cause excessive pressure. (Dennis should add his experience concerning his bolt bottoming out to the rear from use of the wrong booster, also, I'm not quite certain it was 9mm for .308, the 8mm was defiantly 11.5mm)
Reichpapers
Q. What do I need to swap calibers from .308 to8mm?
A.
Q. How do I field strip the MG42?
A.
Q. Can the MG42 trigger pull weight be adjusted?
A. Yes,
your new semi auto MG42 trigger pull can be reduced with the installation
of lighter hammer spring and slight polishing of your fire control (hammer
trigger & sear)
Note: installation of lighter hammer springs may result in weak primer
strikes.
ak47dennis
A.
Currently there are three mounts designed
for use by the MG42, (or its variants) which could be utilized to meet your
shooting, display or reenactment needs.
MG42 Lafette Mount (Lafette 42):$900
- $1,500 An expensive alternative if your just looking for that good shooting
mount. Reenactor...the only way to go if you're looking for authenticity. Can't
be beat for that WWII display in your livingroom (or basement if you're
married). These things are so complicated, you can play U boot on it all day
long turning dials and pulling levers... They seem to have become a bit more
affordable of late...I placed the price range in such a way to take original and
Post War Yugo refurbs into account...If you have plans of using it for
reenacting, I'd suggest repainting the Yugo refurbs and replacing the range
plate with a German one (usually sold with the mount).
Post War AA Tripod (Dreibein 34)
$79 - $100 This seems to be the alternative for the budget MG42/MG3 shooter...it
can be used to shoot down aircraft (not recommended) or fired
horizontally...When firing horizonatlly I'd suggest hangigng full ammo cans or
snail drum holders on the hooks as the mount will bounce around quite a bit. If
you want one for reenacting, you may need to make a few alterations to the mount
before you use it..
a. Mill off the Nato
stock number.
b. Buy the right carrying sling
c. Paint it the right color
d. Replace the mounting bracket with the proper aufsatz and Lager 42 (bracket
and 42 adaptor).
MG3 Mount: $400 - $450 If you're
looking to shoot, this is the best system you can get with an affordable price
attached. Mounts come complete with entire assembly, including the optics (not
usually included in a Lafette Mount).
Reichpapers
Q. How do you clean ammo belts?
A. Ideally, I would let the belts soak in a parts washer. After soaking, scrub the belt with a brush, also running a bore brush of appropriate size through the channels....If you don't have a parts washer, simply skip the step. Some may not approve, but I would also run the belt through scalding hot water then dry. Apply a light coat of oil before storing. The German Universal MG book suggests coating the cartridge channels with oil before inserting cartridges...this helps reduce the amount of force needed to extract the cartridges.
Reichpapers
Q. How many rounds of linked .308 or 8mm will fit in a ammo can?
A. Approximately 220 rounds of linked .308 ammo will fit comfortably in a .30 Cal ammo can, give or take a few rounds. The 8mm Wartime (and Yugo postwar) will fit 300 rounds of linked 8mm as long as you shift the direction the bullets sit in the can... As each belt held 50 rounds, 6 belts would fit in each can. Early in the war the first two belts were placed in the can facing one direction, while the other 4 belts would face the other...Late in the war they changes this so as 3 belts faced one direction and 3 the other.
Reichpapers
Q. Should I use the lid of the ammo can to help feed the ammo when shooting?
A. That's a good idea; couldn't hurt.
Q. Do I need to help feed the ammo when shooting the MG42?
A. You can shoot 25 round belts without some help; more than that have someone feed.
A.
Weights:
Bipod: 1.1kg (2.4 lbs)
Barrel: 1.76kg (3.9 lbs)
Gun minus the tripod 11kg (24.25 lbs)
Reichpapers
Q. How do I clear a jam in the gun?
A. There are many
problems that can result in a jam...I'll cover a few of them. First lets
take a look at a few causes.
a. Broken or worn parts
- Hey, these things are old, the MG42 has been used for years in various
climates by different countries...who is to say they were serviceable when
you took receipt of the parts...the countries unloading these on the
importers know that they'll be chopped up...(they know we just want them
shiny with good grips and no rust). Its always wise to inspect your
firearm before firing, this way you will identify potential problems from
wear and tear. Or, it may not even be the MG rather your belts may be
kinked or squished. I won't cover what to check here (I'll try to get
something together).
b. Ammunition
- You know full well what type of crud is circulating on the market, a
perfect example is the Turk ammo...your Mauser may eat this stuff with no
problem, but don't expect the MG to eat it without complaints...usually
what works best is to try various ammos and see what works best for you.
Due to a budget it may behoove you to convert to .308.
c. Poorly serviced weapon
- No one will admit it, but there are those that don't clean their weapons
(or don't clean them properly)...you get enough carbon buildup on a gun
with tight tolerances and you'll have problems...oh wait that's the
MG34...still letting your 42 go to pot (PA term) will bring problems. Take
the time to learn your weapon....take it apart, inspect your parts, clean
them thoroughly and properly...oil it once in a while.
d. Operator error
- Nobody is calling you an idiot (feeling guilty?), some folks just don't
know what they're doing with the weapon...as stated above, get to know
your weapon, understand what makes it tick, and how to prevent functional
failures. Also, your assistant gunner could be an idiot..err, I mean
inexperienced...Perhaps he twisted the belt or held it too tight while the
gun was firing. Perhaps your belt is too long and the weapon doesn't have
the ability to pull the belt up (more so on a mount).
e. Wrong parts
- This part is specifically hinting at 8mm to .308 conversions...before
you attempt it, find out what you need, not what you think you need. This
forum is the perfect place to ask.
Jams will occur, sometimes it's unavoidable...especially if you're
shooting a weapon recently converted to semi auto (by a company that
doubtfully put years of testing into it.) The root of your jam is most
likely related to either a failure to feed or a failure to eject (or even
a failure to feed due to a failure to eject ). Jams are not really a
problem unless you have a live round stuck in the weapon, with the
charging handle frozen in place. For a jam do the following:
1. Pull back on the charging handle
locking the bolt to the rear.
2. Engage your safety
3. Open the top cover
4. Remove any ammo or feed devices from the weapon.
5. Inspect chamber for an unfired cartridge
6. Inspect for any visual damage
It would be unrealistic to tear the weapon apart and inspect for damage
after every failure to feed. Just do a quick look-over for visible
problems. If nothing is out of order reload and continue firing. If a
loose round is in the receiver, just take it out. If a round is stuck in
the chamber we have other issues. There is a chance the round in the
chamber is either live or unfired. Also most likely the weapon tried to
double feed another round which hit the rear of the chambered cartridge
and is floating in the receiver. I'd suggest discarding this round as the
projectile might have been pushed farther into the shell, or the cartridge
dented. The last thing you want to do is go prying at the back of the
cartridge to get it out...I'd suggest letting the weapon sit for 5 minutes
then drop a cleaning rod through the muzzle to get the bullet knocked out
of the chamber. Remember to always keep the weapon pointed in a safe
direction and don't look down the barrel. If the cleaning rod plops it
right out, finish your inspection and continue firing. Myrvangs book notes
that you can check to see if a live round is in the chamber by inserting a
cleaning rod at the muzzle and measuring how far in it dropped...clearly
the rod would not insert as far if a round was in the cartridge. If you
have a round that can not be removed...you're *censored*, you better head
to your local gunsmith and hope it doesn't discharge going through
downtown.
One other problem that comes to mind is when the MG tears a shell in half
trying to extract it, leaving the front end still lodged in the
chamber...hope you brought your gunners pouch so you can use that handy
shell extractor.
Let me leave you with one piece of wisdom. The worst thing you could ever
do when you have a live round jammed in your weapon is to remove the
buttstock.
Reichpapers
Q. What things must the home-builder make sure to do to comply with the GCA '68 ?
A.
Q. What features/mods are necessary to make a semi-auto that is approved by ATF?
A.
To start, there truly is nothing you can do
to make a semi that will automatically be approved by the ATF. Depending
on who is inspecting your design, you are at the mercy of their decisions.
For all we know, some of their decisions are not even based on whether the
design is valid, but rather they wish to prevent a specific semi version
to hit the market.
That said, lets move on to the basics...
Looking at the current semi autos on the market, most tend to follow a
basic pattern that is necessary to prevent full auto functionality. Some
conversions go above and beyond introducing unnecessary changes, probably
in hopes of having a better chance of approval. For my example we'll take
a look at the Inter-Ordnance (i.e. American Arms) SR-41 (PPSH41 semi), as
it incorporates all of the FA blocks and may just have been the headway
for most of the semi criteria used today. First lets cover the
necessities:
a. Block the ability to insert the full auto bolt.
- IO’s way of doing this on the PPSh41 was to weld a steel block along the
lower edge of the left rear of the receiver. This block also prevented
mating the upper receiver with a full auto complete lower assembly by
cutting a notch in the lower receiver to allow it to mate with the SA
converted upper.
b. Block the ability to insert the full auto trigger pack.
- IO simply cut a notch in the forward end of the trigger pack and welded
a small stud onto the lower receiver by the cutout for the trigger pack. A
trigger pack without this notch could not be placed into the receiver.
c. Change the firing mechanism to a closed bolt/hammer fired design.
- Using the original trigger pack (more like a tray), they replaced all of
the original internals with an AK47 fire group. The trigger was also
replaced. The FA/SA selector was converted into a safety.
d. Modify the bolt to function as a semi in their modified receiver.
- They basically drilled a hole the length of the bolt to accept a firing
pin. The rear of the firing pin channel was widened to accept the thicker
rear section of the firing pin and the firing pin spring. The firing pin
was retained by a roll pin. They shaved off the sear catch and a good
portion of the left side of the bolt to bypass the FA bolt block.
Now the unnecessary changes:
The rear of the upper receiver had a cap/button which was pressed to open
the upper receiver....The receiver lifted like a top cover giving easy
access to the internals. IO welded the cap shut which made you have to
remove the receiver pivot pin/barrel retaining pin and completely separate
the upper and lower receiver to field strip.
Instead of utilizing the original trigger,
they cut the trigger slot to accommodate the AK trigger....they should
have left the original.
Originally the lower receiver and trigger
pack were fastened to the stock using a regular bolt that fit through the
stock, from behind the receiver through to the front bottom of the pistol
grip area. The bolt fastened itself to the trigger guard via a threaded
hole. IO stripped out the threads to where the bolt threaded into the
trigger guard and kept it tight by the use of a bolt tightened on the
outside of the trigger guard.
The sling loop and front sight shroud was not reaffixed to the barrel
shroud.
The last part they had to do for sales, but I wish they just sold them
without barrels. The front of the shroud was broken open to make way for a
piece of pipe that was welded over the original barrel to extend the
length of the barrel to legal minimum length.
In the end I had to do some extensive modifications to undo some of their
overzealous (or due to laziness) modifications. Taking parts from an
original kit, I had the sling loop and sight hood welded back on. The
front barrel channel and the front plate were welded back on. The rear
section of receiver was cut off and replaced with a receiver with
functional takedown button (cut after bolt block). The AK trigger was cut
off and the original trigger piece welded on to make it at least look
original. Lastly the trigger guard hole was welded shut, redrilled and
then tapped to once again allow the fastening bolt to affix to it. The
moral of this story is basically "if you want something done right, you
have to do it yourself.
Reichpapers
Q. Can a home-built MG42 ever be sold?
A.
Q. How many home-built guns can one make in any given time period?
A.
Q. Does there need to be name, serial number, date of mfgr, and place of mfgr if I build my own?
A. There are no requirements for a serial number, etc. The BATFE recommends that the home builder places a serial number, name and location of the builder in case of theft. See this letter for more information.
drooling idiot
A. There are a limited number of parts from a full auto parts kit that would be usable in a semi automatic MG42. While it may not be illegal for you to possess a parts kit and a semi auto MG42, it would probably appear to be more reasonable (in the eyes of the BATFE) to only possess semi auto parts and parts that work in both firearms.
Q. Are new steel links regulated the same way as high capacity magazines?
A. Depends on your local laws. Usually when more than 10 are linked.
Q. Why do bolts differ in weight?
Q. Is the a print of the reciever?
A. Yes for the rear section here.
Submit a Question or Answer for the FAQ
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